The Jewel of Southern Africa Adventure: Zambia
- Ankitha
- Jan 6, 2022
- 11 min read
Updated: Sep 25
December 2021
Seven trips. Five continents. Ten countries (it should have been thirteen but that is a frustrating story for another day). For now, let's wrap up a wild 2021 in style. Our emotions? Exhilarated after a year that exceeded my expectations in every way. A year after my own gypsy heart. Let's dive into everything you need to know about traveling to Zambia.
Our last trip of 2021 was dramatic to say the least, but we regret nothing. Zambia welcomed us with open arms. It is a completely off-the-beaten-path country when it comes to Africa and is often overlooked by safari travelers who would rather head to Kruger or Botswana. Like us, many people only make it here to see the mighty Victoria Falls.
Though you will quickly discover that there is more to do—from going on a safari, watching zebra and giraffe graze peacefully just from the comfort of your resort, walking to see the white rhinos, to interactions with African elephants.
Strap on, join us on our journey as we put Zambia on the map for you.
Strap on, join us on our journey as we put Zambia on the map for you.
Ultimate Zambia Itinerary
Day 1: Land in Lusaka, relax and unwind at Lilayi Lodge
Day 2: Drive from Lusaka to Livingstone, Zambezi river cruise
Day 3: Devil’s Pool and Victoria Falls hike
Day 4: Walking Safari to see white rhinos. R&R at Royal Livingstone Anantara
Day 5: Elephant Interaction. Breakfast. R&R. PCR Test
Day 6: Check out at noon and head back to Lusaka for flight home next day
Day 7: Fly home
Table of Contents
Flights + Visa
We flew directly with Emirates from Dubai to Lusaka.
For Zambia, you will need to apply for a visa ahead of time and have it on you before you board. You can apply for it here. Make sure to have your itinerary, flight tickets, and hotel bookings ready before submitting your application.
Tourist visa costs as of 2022:
$25 for single entry
$40 for double entry
$75 for multiple entry
Immigration was simple—no long queues and minimal questions, mostly about departure date and accommodations.
Safety
Zambia is very safe and easy to visit as a family destination.
Best Time to Visit
If Victoria Falls is your main attraction, go between October and early December for the best chance to swim in Devil’s Pool. The pool closes during high season due to rains.
Language
Language is never an issue here. Everyone speaks English and is incredibly kind.
Insurance + Currency
Travel insurance is highly recommended. Consider World Nomads for coverage. USD is accepted at resorts, but carry local currency for small purchases.
Guide
Traveling in Africa is not always easy or cheap. If you want to avoid logistical headaches, a local guide is invaluable. Our guide was patient and hands-on, helping us navigate last-minute restrictions and tests. We highly recommend using a trusted guide in Zambia.
Getting from Lusaka to Livingstone
Expect long road trips. Private transfers: $200–$300. Shared buses: cheaper. Our guide arranged everything, and the journey was smooth despite minor delays.
Budget
Expect $1000–$1500 per person for tours, safari, and local transport (excluding flights and hotels).
Vegetarian + Vegan Food
Food can be challenging in Africa, but our resorts catered excellently to vegetarian and vegan diets.
Where We Stayed
Highlights
Lusaka
We arrived around 1 p.m. and stayed at Lilayi Lodge, known for its elephant orphanage. The garden was serene, and wildlife sightings (including pumba) were a bonus.
The room and the garden area were pure Zen. We even saw a family of pumba right outside our room. Couldn't have asked for a better start to our trip. There is also a small trail you can take right inside the property. A great way to spot more wildlife without leaving the resort.
I was pleasantly surprised to see so many vegan and vegetarian options. We tried the curry and the burger, both excellent. Highly recommend unwinding at this resort after a long journey.
Lusaka to Livingstone
A 9-hour bus ride. After arrival, we enjoyed a sunset cruise on the Zambezi River, spotting birds, hippos, crocodiles, and even elephants.
After a quite afternoon, we stepped out for a delightful sunset cruise.
Did you know that Zambezi river is the fourth longest river in Africa? This majestic flowing beauty is what brought the famous explorer David Livingstone to Victoria Falls. One of the most fun ways to experience the river is on a sunset cruise.
There are many options to choose from - check with your hotel concierge for which one to book. The Zambezi Royal cruise is the premium offering. You are guaranteed sightings of birds, crocodile, warthogs, hippos and if you are really lucky, even elephants. The cruise is around 2 hours. I found it to be a fabulous way to stretch your legs and move at nature's slow pace.
Back to the resort for a fabulous vegetarian Zambian dinner.
Devil’s Pool
One of the world’s largest natural infinity pools, at the edge of Livingstone Island. Book through Tongabezi for $110 per person.
Tips:
Best slot: 9 a.m. for double rainbow
Minimal items needed; towels provided
Guides ensure safety throughout
Victoria Falls Hike
Experience the “Smoke that Thunders” on foot. Entry: $20. Wear hiking shoes and be ready for breathtaking views and photo opportunities.
How to book:
This is not a DIY activity. If you are planning to go here on your own, know that you cannot do that. You will have to book with the handful of registered operators. The one that comes highly recommended is Tongabezi. You can directly book the tour with them on their website.
Costs:
The activity costs $110 per person, includes a hearty breakfast, pick up and drop from your lodge in Victoria Falls.
Safety:
Nothing we do in this lifetime is without risk. Traveling is a risk. So is driving. Even eating food can one day cause you to choke. You might want to argue then that is it necessary to take this undue risk? That is a personal choice. What I will do here is present you with real facts about our entire experience without exaggeration. You can then decide if this activity is for you!
Tips:
There are multiple slots available through the day starting with 7 30 a.m. 9 a.m. 10 30 12 30 and 15 30. I recommend going for the 9 a.m. slot to catch the double rainbow. It is the best time to go without the weather being too warm. The light won't be too harsh either.
Don't carry lot of things with you. We only took our phone and gopro with us. That is all we needed. Even towels were provided to us.
The tour:
You are picked up from your resort at 9 a.m. - make sure to arrange for pick up ($5 per person) when you make the booking. After a safety briefing, you will be led down a narrow path towards the falls. From here, you take a short 15 minute boat to the part where the pool begins. Take your time soaking in the view - this where you are headed. Ready? Let's go!
Now, in this picture it might seem like I am leaning over the edge with no support. A small gush of water can push me over, right?
Not really. A gorge forms a “deep wall” of sorts at the edge of the waterfall, creating a safe barrier from where you can peer over - not by yourself. The safety guide is always behind you. He will hold your legs if you do decide you would like to peer over the edge of the pool. You don't have to. Feel fee to just sit on the rocks. We had complete faith in our guides and felt safe the whole time they were holding us.
Now things start to get serious, pay attention. Depending on the size of your group, you will have two or three safety guides. We had two since our turned out to be a private tour. One of them took photos from the shore, the other one was helping us stay afloat. They told us exactly what to do every step of the way - where to jump and where not to. You see where there is a rush of water just around the edge of the pool? We were told to jump there and swim along a straight course until we reached the edge, where the guide was ready to support us.
You are not allowed to stand here or do anything else fancy!
Note that there are times of the year, this is a seasonal activity. The water levels could go as high as 10-15ft; the pool will be closed at that time. The guides know what they are doing. They assess the situation every minute and will advise. DO NOT STEP OUT OF LINE.
True to my travel style, I did plenty of research on the activity to make doubly sure we were mentally and physically ready to take up this challenge. We were not disappointed. The entire experience is hard to put into words. It was beyond thrilling; exhilarating, surreal and easily one of the most beautiful places we have been to in a while. It is worth all the hype. Of course, planning always pays off, so yes, we even got to see the double rainbow which just added to the whimsical vibe.
On hindsight, it was not as scary as people made it out to be since we were with some of the most hardworking guides the whole time who did everything to make sure were safe. The water levels were already high at the end of November so it was a lot harder to swim upstream but swim we did. This was actually the trickier part more so than sitting at the edge of this thunderous waterfall. We are no strangers to wild activities and in my opinion, this once in a lifetime adventure is relatively safe, provided you are a confident swimmer, aren’t afraid of being in the water and are ok with being this high up above ground level.
After a quick lunch, I set off incredible Victoria Falls but this time by foot. As I made my way up towards the trail, I caught the late afternoon light reflecting off the water cascading down Victoria Falls.. but I remember now that I could hear the deafening roar of the falls long before I could see it. This is the trail to see the Mosi-Oa-Tunya, aptly named the “smoke that thunders” in the local language.
It feels nearly impossible to show the grandeur of this place through pictures but it is not for my lack of trying. I have only ever seen drops of water being splayed into the air in Niagara falls and this is just as ethereal. If you are staying at the Avani hotel, you can take a 10 minute walk to the entrance of the Victoria Falls - there is a $20 entrance fee. Once inside, there are multiple loops you can take. It is a great place to spend a few hours, especially later in the day.
Seeing the falls from it's base is an activity you cannot miss when here. To do this, you need to get to the boiling point loop trail. Note that this also a seasonal activity and in high season, the water would have flooded the trail. This trail does require that you be fit - it is not an easy hike to do. This is as close as I could get to Zimbabwe on this trip - thanks world.
TIP: Be sure to wear good hiking shoes.
Fun back story: the hubs did not join me on this hike. I was accompanied by two Zambians - one a security guard and the other one a guide looking to make a quick buck, I didn't turn down the offer. Though I did not have cash on hand, I decided to donate my shoes and earring to his little sister. Her priceless smile made my whole day.
Safari Day
Zambia is the birthplace of walking safaris. We explored the park to spot endangered white rhinos.
Fun fact: White rhinos are not actually white—they’re called “wijde” (wide-lipped) rhinos.
We took this safari mainly to see the now endangered and rare white rhino.
The trip starts with a drive into the national park to meet the rangers who are tracking the rhinos. There are a total of 8 rhinos in the park; they are heavily protected by rangers 24/7.
Surprise! they are not actually white. The story goes like this - the Dutch settlers referred to this rhino as having a wide lip. The English mistook the word “wijde” (meaning wide) for “white” and simply assumed that these are named white rhinos by the Dutch.
The rest of the day was spent relaxing every bone in Anantara. What a perfect way to spend our eighth anniversary.
Elephant Sanctuary
We interacted with five orphaned elephants, hand-feeding and observing them in their natural habitat. An unforgettable experience, emphasizing conservation and animal welfare.
Unlike the encounters you have in Thailand, Srilanka or Nepal, here the animals are free. You will usually find them roaming around inside the park and are protected by members of the local community. Immersing ourselves in their journey and learning from experts who care for them every day was an experience that enthralled us.
We got so close to them and encountered some very strong personalities - like the male who shooed away the female because she got too close for comfort. Oops. We also discovered their unique skills that make them the magical creatures they are. Since being orphaned in the 70s, these elephants have since been raised safely under human protection. They were transferred to the care of Safari Par excellence inside the Mosi-Oa-Tunya national park, a place these animals now call home.
What I loved was the strong bond between the handlers and the elephants. You can see the subtle ways in which they interact with their caregivers - no jitters, just comfort. This love is given to all humans they encounter. The elephants, though older, were naughty and extremely comfortable in our presence. They never shied away. That just goes to show that these animals are treated right here.
The encounter lasts about 30 minutes - you grab food with both hands, say mouth open, drop in the seeds with one hand. Use your other hand to drop food in their trunk. Don't forget to give her/him a nice pat. I cannot tell you what a blissful feeling this was. Could have done it all day long.
P.S. expect to get whacked on the backside by those giant ears!
After the feeding, the elephants run off to splash mud and take a bath in the waterhole. It really is the most endearing way to witness these magnificent giants in their natural environment. Bathing splashing, playing and being themselves in their natural environment. You are never truly alive until you breathe same air as wild animals do. Moments worth living for.
Rest of the day was spent at Anantara, enjoying a grand jetty breakfast and soaking in the most breathtaking views.
Day 6 & 7
PCR tests and return journey. Stayed at eco-friendly Wild Dog Lodge, 15 minutes from Lusaka airport.
Final Thoughts
Africa is not for the faint-hearted. Zambia, with its welcoming people, untouched landscapes, and iconic Victoria Falls, was the perfect end to our adventurous 2021. The continent offers deserts, mountains, waterfalls, and beaches—and an unmatched connection with nature.
Zambia is safe, warm, and relatively undiscovered. Stand in awe of Victoria Falls without the crowds and leave with memories that will last a lifetime.
Zambia has a lot going for it. It also happens to be one of the most safest places to visit in Southern Africa. I can vouch for that. People are incredible, warm friendly and don't invade your space. I obviously chose this country because it is yet to be discovered by most travelers. If you need more convincing - imagine seeing the thunderous Victoria Falls without it being packed with tourists unlike in certain other places. That in itself warrants a visit. You cannot help but stand in awe as you get sprayed by this waterfall.
Zambia was the befitting end to our phenomenal year packed with intrepid countries. We cannot wait to go back and finish the rest of our trip later this year.
Drop your comments below and show some love. Feel free to shoot me an email with your feedback.
Cheers,
Anki
To explore more African destinations, be sure to check out other blogs for additional insights.
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Thank you for sharing your experience at this stunning place! Being from South Africa, I did Mosi-oa-Tunya a different way. I flew to Harare then to Vic Falls. Stayed in Zim for 2 nights and literally walked to the border and crossed into Zambia (it took hours). I was very broke and pretty fit so it worked out (wouldn't do it now HAHA). I LOVE that you LOVE African countries and seeing the joy in your photos warms my heart. Thank you for taking the time to visit our continent and promote it to your audience as more than just animals, disease and poverty. We as Africans, appreciate you 💕