Lord of the Drums: A Solo Trip to Burundi and Lake Tanganyika
- Ankitha
- Nov 22, 2022
- 6 min read
Updated: Sep 2
As I sat beside the Livingstone-Stanley monument, an iconic location just a short drive from the capital, I realized that for the first time, I was traveling solo on the continent.
Welcome to Burundi, the “heart of Africa”, a lesser known, tiny French speaking African country bordered by Rwanda, DRC and Tanzania. Once called the “second saddest country on the continent”, it won’t be easy traveling here but I guarantee that this choice to visit will make a small difference in the lives of the people there.
It is often found on the "do not travel list" of most Western countries because of the coup that happened few years ago. That is no longer the situation. Like I say, if you are adventurous to make it to such places, you will have the most amazing real stories to tell.
ITINERARY
Land, check in, beach visit, David Livingstone-Stanley monument
Source of the Nile, Karera Waterfalls
Royal Drummers of Burundi
Teza, tea estate visit
Lake Tanganyika, wildlife
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Flights + Visa
There are no direct flights. You can connect via Ethiopian Airlines.
Visa is on arrival at $90 for all passport holders. You will need two pages, as always.
Immigration will be slow. Just be patient.
Solo Travel
As in any country, as a woman, exert common sense and be watchful. I didn't feel unsafe. The country has come a long way since the days of cross-country coups. For those wondering, "is Burundi safe to visit?" — I felt safe as a solo traveler.
Best time to visit
I went in September. Since this is East Africa, it was supposed to be raining but I actually had fantastic weather throughout my trip so hard to tell what the best time is. It does get warm and humid during the day, so pack loose-fitting clothes.
Language
As I said, this is a French speaking African country so if you know French, it will be simpler. That said, most people in the city will speak English.
Travel and Medical Insurance, Currency
Travel Insurance is highly recommended - we have our own, but if you are looking for one try World Nomad. Carry local currency for small purchases and tipping.
Guide
The roads are not the greatest once you leave the city. For safety and for some peace of mind, I recommend finding a local guide. The person I went with was experienced, safe and always on time. Highly recommended.
Cost
You can easily hit all the main spots in 5 days. The flight to get there was the most expensive part of the trip. A 5-day trip would cost about $650-700 depending on number of people. Remember that solo traveling in Africa is expensive.
Vegan + Vegetarian Food
It wasn't the worst place for veggie food. I managed to find fresh avocado, cheese toast, juice, and even some Indian food in Bujumbura. Since everyone spoke English, I actually quite liked the service.
Where I Stayed
I stayed at the best property in town, Hotel Club Du Lac Tanganyika. I stayed in a single room that came with a kitchenette and amazing queen bed. Cut off from the center of the city, closer to Lake Tanganyika, it was so spacious and luxurious. Highly recommended for anyone who wants beach vibes right by the lake.
Highlights
Gitega
After a long journey, the first thing I did was check in and refresh. A quick nap later, I decided to take a drive around town to soak up that history.
Back to the hotel, I caught a delightful sunset over Lake Tanganyika. Who can believe this is Burundi and not Zanzibar?
As I sat there, sipping my juice by Lake Tanganyika, I felt truly grateful to be the only traveler/tourist in this country. Having places like this to myself is something I will never ever get tired of.
Source of the Nile
I woke up bright and early to go outside and experience the quietness of Lake Tanganyika. It was just me and the fishermen in their boats.
After a nice relaxed breakfast by Lake Tanganyika, we ventured outside the city for a long drive. This leg reminded me of our drive up in Uganda.
Fun geography fact: did you know that the southernmost point of the Nile River is in Burundi?
On my trip, I learned that explorers identified the Burundian source in 1937.
We later drove to the Karera waterfalls. Hidden inside the forests of Rutana, this was one of the prettiest pit stops I made as I explored the country.
This waterfalls may look small but there are actually 5 waterfalls inside the park. There is a bit of driving to get around here so I recommend taking it slow and spending time just walking around to all the waterfalls. It wasn’t as impressive as the ones in Bali but so worth making the trip from the capital.
Travel tips:
📌 there is a small entrance fee to enter.
📌 Pack a swimsuit and a towel, wear comfortable crocs
📌 best time to see the waterfalls in all its glory is in rainy season between end of September to early November
Royal Drummers of Burundi
Today was the main event — meeting the Royal Drummers of Burundi.
After watching them, I returned for a lakeside walk along Lake Tanganyika, still buzzing from the rhythms.
The energy of the drums somehow matched the waves hitting the shores of Lake Tanganyika.
Said to be some of the greatest percussion ensembles in the world, these incredible drummers have performed this way for centuries, passing down traditions from father to son. The oldest member I met was around 80 and the youngest was just 8.
The hollowed-out drums are covered with dead cow skin and are made out of a local tree is said “that makes the drums speak”. I watched in awe and danced with them as they channeled the spirit and energy of an entire nation through these drums. Absolutely unique to this country.
The best part was that the entire village turns up to watch them perform - it’s your best chance to donate generously to the chief and his team who help the local community
Teza, Tea Estate
This country is famous for some of Africa’s most flavorful tea, and the best place to find them is among the valleys of mountains and thermal springs of Teza.
Even here, locals reminded me that their tea pairs best with fresh fish caught straight from Lake Tanganyika.
I have a thing for tranquil places, this was one such scenic setting with a carpet of green spread over rolling hills, with little kids excitedly screaming “muzumbu” aka “foreigners/white-skinned” as they walked up the hills with me. I handed them cookies and candy, their smile - priceless
Lake Tanganyika
On my last day here, I decided to stay closer to the capital and explore one of the most iconic lakes of Africa — Lake Tanganyika.
If it wasn’t for Lake Baikal in Siberia, Lake Tanganyika in Burundi would be the deepest, longest, and oldest freshwater lake in the world. I journeyed along Lake Tanganyika to discover fish, crocodiles, hippos, and ancient legends. From meeting the local fishermen, to spotting wildlife, it was a fitting end to an adventurous trip.
Sitting quietly at the shores of Lake Tanganyika, I realized it isn’t just a body of water — it’s the beating heart of Burundi. The lake shapes daily life, culture, and identity here. Truly, Lake Tanganyika is a must-add for any Africa travel plan.
Final Thoughts
What a delight it has been discovering the hidden corners of this untouched African nation filled with bewitching landscapes & mind-blowing cultural experiences. From dancing with Royal Drummers to catching sunsets over Lake Tanganyika, this trip was full of soul.
While not all of us will have a bucket list, most travelers will admit to having a list of places they would like to visit. The way we all experience travel is different — from the places we choose, the stories we tell, to the things that interest us. I naively believe there is room for everyone — including these refreshing stories from lands people haven’t heard of. Photos that reveal the very fabric of a destination. Like this one, taken while walking by Lake Tanganyika after a day of adventure.
This isn’t the only place on the continent with a heart-wrenching reality, but it is the first of many journeys I will be taking through the next few months. I hope it will continue to shape me as a traveler. Look beyond the popular places and get down to discovering Africa beyond the usual. You won’t regret the magic of Lake Tanganyika and Burundi.
Drop your comments below and show some love. Feel free to shoot me an email with your feedback.
Cheers,
Anki
To explore more African destinations, be sure to check out other blogs for additional insights.
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