Lalibela Churches & Ethiopia Travel Guide: Solo, Safe, & Spiritual
- Ankitha
- Jan 6, 2024
- 4 min read
Updated: Aug 1
Since Africa is my favorite continent, I go through the Addis Ababa airport at least ten times a year, it was only fair that I took time out to explore the one place in this massive (commercialized) country that has been on my list: the Lalibela churches.
In November 2023, I got lost in the time capsule that is Lalibela, where ancient tales whisper through the carved stone walls.
These spectacular rock-hewn wonders aren’t just buildings; they’re living legends etched into the soul of this mystical town. The history dates back to the 12th century, King Lalibela envisioned a ‘New Jerusalem’ and voila, his dream manifested into these awe-inspiring churches, sculpted with divine precision from solid rock. Each crevice tells a story, and each corner echoes with the footsteps of centuries. Let's dive in.
Lalibela Travel Itinerary
Day 1: Arrival in Addis Ababa (evening), rest
Day 2: Early morning flight to Lalibela, visit half the churches at sunset
Day 3: Explore remaining churches at sunrise
Day 4: Full day in Addis Ababa
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Flights & Visa for Ethiopia
I flew in from Djibouti via Ethiopian Airlines, arriving late at night. The Ethiopian e-visa was seamless—30-day single-entry visa cost $80, processed online via the official portal.
Language in Ethiopia
With over 80 languages, Ethiopia is incredibly diverse. Amharic is widely spoken, and English is common in cities like Addis Ababa and Lalibela.
Best Time to Visit Ethiopia
Plan your trip between November to February, the dry season ideal for visiting Lalibela churches and enjoying comfortable weather across the highlands of Ethiopia.
Currency in Ethiopia
US Dollars and cards work in major cities, but always carry some Ethiopian Birr for rural areas and local markets.
How Long to Spend in Lalibela
Minimum 2 full days in Lalibela is essential. For a broader Ethiopian adventure (Simien Mountains, Omo Valley, etc.), budget 3 weeks.
Internal Flights: Addis to Lalibela
Book your Addis Ababa to Lalibela flights at least 2–3 weeks in advance. Window seats are highly recommended for breathtaking aerial views of the Ethiopian highlands.
Where I Stayed
Addis Ababa: A small hotel near Bole airport—perfect for a short transit.
Lalibela: Tukul Village Hotel—beautifully local, though I was the only guest due to regional tensions.
Vegan & Vegetarian Food in Ethiopia
Ethiopia is one of the best destinations for vegan and vegetarian food in Africa. The national dish Injera is always vegan, and meals are bursting with lentils, greens, and spices.
Costs & Local Guide
I booked through a trusted local guide who ensured safety, cultural immersion, and smooth logistics. Highly recommend a guide during times of unrest. DM me for contact!
Solo Travel & Safety in Ethiopia
In Addis Ababa, be alert like in any big city—avoid flashing valuables. I hired a local driver to maximize my short stay safely.
In Lalibela, while a guide isn’t mandatory, it’s strongly recommended due to potential tensions. Flights can get canceled last-minute, so travel with flexibility and patience.
Highlights of Lalibela
Lalibela
Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches in Ethiopia are the ultimate portals to another era. These architectural wonders, carved with divine precision in the 12th century, stand as living testaments to faith, craftsmanship, and a touch of magic.
Bete Maryam
The House of Mary rises like a stone symphony, filled with ancient frescoes and silence that speaks volumes.
My fingers traced the cool contours of ancient symbols etched into the walls, each glyph a silent prayer whispering through millennia. Here, beneath the sun's embrace, I wasn't just a tourist; I was a pilgrim, following the dusty footsteps of faith laid a thousand years ago.
Bete Golgotha Mikael
Descending into this cave-like church, candlelight flickers on monk robes, hymns echo off the cool rock walls—it’s a full spiritual immersion.
Monks in flowing white robes materialized from the shadows, their voices filling the cavern with ancient hymns that sent shivers down my spine. These 11 medieval churches of Lalibela, carved inside and outside rock, defy architectural norms and tell stories of Christian faith, resilience, and ancient genius.
Addis Ababa Highlights
On my final day, I explored Ethiopia's capital—from the National Museum of Ethiopia to coffee shops where Bunna T’et (coffee ceremonies) turn a drink into a cultural ritual.
Must-Visit Spots:
National Museum of Ethiopia
Merkato Market
Holy Trinity Cathedral
Bole Medhane Churchh
Bunna T’et – Coffee as a Ritual
Forget your quick espresso shots—Ethiopian coffee culture is a spiritual experience, with rounds symbolizing happiness and blessings.
Final Thoughts
Lalibela's rock-hewn churches aren’t just a UNESCO attraction—they’re a spiritual and cultural journey.
This trip offered me a rare mix of history, resilience, and divine artistry. If you ever find yourself in East Africa, don’t miss this offbeat and soul-stirring destination.
Thanks for reading. Leave your questions and comments below.
Lots of love,
Anki
To explore more destinations, be sure to check out other blogs for additional insights.