Antarctica Cruise: Our Journey to the Last Frontier
- Ankitha
- Feb 4, 2020
- 14 min read
Updated: Sep 22
“If Antarctica were music it would be Mozart. Art, and it would be Michelangelo. Literature, and it would be Shakespeare... and yet it is something even greater; the only place on earth that is still as it should be. May we never tame it.” – Andrew Denton
This quote summarizes our journey to the final frontier, and what it truly felt like to step into a place that is wild, untouched, and humbling.
The last continent for us. I couldn’t be more grateful to be able to say this at 31. When we started telling colleagues and friends about our plan to go on an Antarctica cruise, we were met with puzzled looks and countless questions: “Why Antarctica?” “What are you going to do there for two weeks?” “Isn’t it just ice?”
I was amused by how people imagine places they’ve never seen. But nothing could be further from the truth about Antarctica travel.
What could be more fascinating, humbling, and gratifying than being in the most pristine, isolated place in the world? Why go there now, when there are countless “easier” countries still left to see? Because for me, travel has never been about man-made wonders. It has always been about nature at its rawest: the cherry blossoms in Japan, the mountains of New Zealand, and now the glaciers of Antarctica.
I went there to be humbled. By the air so pure it almost stung. By the silence so deep it roared louder than any city. By the sight of wildlife thriving against all odds. This wasn’t just another holiday. This was an Antarctica expedition—a chance to unlearn everything I thought I knew about travel.
And yes, you can visit Antarctica. Many people don’t realize it’s possible, and maybe that’s why it feels so overwhelming. It gets pushed to the “someday bucket list.” This blog is here to show you why that “someday” should be now.
Our Two-Week Antarctica Itinerary
Here’s what our Antarctica itinerary looked like:
Day 0: Ushuaia
Day 1 & 2: At sea, Drake Passage crossing
Day 3: Arctowski Station
Day 4: Yankee Harbor
Day 5: Antarctic Sound
Day 6: Esperanza Station
Day 7: Pendulum Cove
Day 8: Neko Harbour
Day 9: Chiriguano Bay
Day 11: Damoy Island
Day 12: Lemaire Channel & Cuverville Island
Day 13: Fournier Bay
Day 14 & 15: Return via Drake Passage
Day 16: Ushuaia
Each day was different, unpredictable, and absolutely unforgettable.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
When Can You Visit Antarctica?
All Antarctica cruises run from October through March. Each month has its own magic—different weather, landscapes, and wildlife activity. Choosing the best time to visit Antarctica depends on what you want to see.
October–November: Early season, dramatic icy landscapes.
December–January: Warmest months, penguin nesting season (our pick).
February–March: Whale activity peaks, fewer crowds.
We went in Antarctica in December, during the festive season. Penguins were nesting, and we even saw a few chicks. I might choose February next time, but truthfully, no matter when you go, you’re in for an adventure like no other.
Getting There: Flights & Visas
Your journey starts where your Antarctica cruise begins. For most, that’s Ushuaia, Argentina—the southernmost city in the world. We flew Emirates into Buenos Aires and then had a transfer to Ushuaia included in our cruise package.
Tip: If your cruise doesn’t provide transfers, you’ll need to book this domestic flight separately.
LANGUAGE ON BOARD
The staff and expedition team are articulate - everyone speaks fluent English. The second language on board was German, followed by Norwegian. Most of the staff on the cruise were Filipino, so we were perfectly at home speaking to them in Tagalog.
TRAVEL INSURANCE + CURRENCY
You would need a special travel and medical Insurance to travel to Antarctica. I would recommend World Nomads. Currency on board the ship is NOK (Norwegian NOK) - but all major credit cards are also accepted on the ship.
How Much Does an Antarctica Cruise Cost?
I don’t usually talk numbers, but let’s be honest—Antarctica travel isn’t cheap.
Mid-size cruises start around $7,000 USD per person.
Luxury suites can go up to $15,000 USD.
Smaller ships often mean more frequent landings, but also higher prices.
Add-ons like kayaking, camping, or mountaineering come at extra cost.
If you’re traveling solo, find a cabin-mate to avoid the single supplement fee. And remember, this isn’t just another trip—it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience.
Choosing the Right Antarctica Expedition
The options can feel overwhelming, but here’s how to narrow it down:
Pick your dates and budget. Decide the best time to visit Antarctica for what you want to experience.
Choose your style. Luxury, mid-range, or bare-bones adventure—what suits you?
Consider ship size. Smaller ships (100–200 passengers) mean more landings. Larger ones mean more stability on the Drake Passage crossing.
We chose Hurtigruten and their ship MS Midnatsol because:
Mid-size meant sturdier seas and more comfort.
They’re pioneers in sustainable travel, something crucial in fragile Antarctica.
Timing fit perfectly with our schedule.
The crew, service, and landings exceeded every expectation.
Ours was a twin cable - so two comfortable beds/couches with an attached bath. Amenities on board included two viewing decks, library/board game room, gym, Jacuzzi and a pool. I highly recommend going with a reputable cruise line. This guarantees safe, organized landings. I was more than satisfied with the experience. The service fantastic, the crew was fabulous and knowledgeable, the landings extremely well organized. I could not recommend it highly enough.
Sustainability and Responsible Antarctica Travel
I worried about the environmental footprint of our Antarctica expedition, but my fears were eased once I saw how strictly IAATO regulations are enforced.
All waste is carried back to South America.
You must disinfect before and after every landing.
You’re required to keep at least 5 feet away from wildlife.
Even laundry onboard is eco-conscious—skip towel changes and Hurtigruten donates to environmental causes.
Nature dictates everything in Antarctica. And as visitors, we adapt.
What Life on Board Feels Like
One of the best surprises of an Antarctica cruise is how quickly you slip into the rhythm of life at sea. Days were filled with lectures by the expedition team, wildlife spotting from deck, and endless photography sessions.
The food was plentiful, though as vegetarians we sometimes struggled. Vegans should plan ahead. Internet was patchy and expensive, but honestly, it felt liberating to disconnect.
And then there were the landings—zodiac rides, hikes, kayaking sessions. Each day was unpredictable, shaped by the weather, the ice, and the wildlife.
HOW DO YOU STAY CONNECTED TO THE WORLD?
The internet on board is paid (was around $20 per night). We decided to only pay for it once a week; we would have skipped it altogether if it wasn't for work. The connectivity was not great; I was barely able to use whatsapp. Choose wisely - don't pay for it if you can go a few weeks without internet.
VEGAN + VEGETARIAN FOOD
Most cruises are full board meaning there are meals served three times a day (also, a light tea/coffee snack at 4 p.m.). The spread was generous - think huge four-course meals. Being vegetarians while traveling is always a struggle - this time was no different. You should be alright if you eat seafood/meat. If you are vegan, it is NOT going to be easy. Plan accordingly. The Highlights of Our Antarctica Cruise
There are so many, but here are a few that left us speechless:
Arctowski Station: Our first penguin sighting (Gentoo, Chinstrap, and Adelie).
Yankee Harbor: Elephant seals on the beach.
Esperanza Station: Meeting locals who actually live here year-round.
Neko Harbour: Walking alongside penguin highways.
Lemaire Channel: Sailing through icebergs taller than buildings.
Fournier Bay: Whale encounters that felt surreal.
Every day brought something new, something wild, something unforgettable.
Packing Tips for an Antarctica Expedition
Overpacking is a mistake. Bring only what you need:
Thermal base layers
Waterproof pants & parka
Beanie, scarf, gloves
Sunscreen & moisturizer
Boots (often provided by the cruise line)
Swimsuit (for hot tubs or the brave “polar plunge”)
Travel light, and let the icy continent do the heavy lifting of awe
Day 0
We landed in Buenos Aires and spent a day exploring the city. Our flight to Ushuaia was not until the next morning (arranged by the cruise line). The journey to the southern most city in the world takes a good 3 hours, so if you are leaving on your own, be sure to account for flight delays and leave enough travel time before you have to board your ship.
Drake shake - Day 1 & 2
If you have been researching this trip, you already know about the DRAKE PASSAGE. Crossing the passage takes two days, in reasonable weather - after all, this is the roughest sea in the world. If you are worried about being bored, don't - you will have plenty to do on board. Your expedition team will give you your boots, help you clean all your outwear, orient you about what you can and can't do while on shore and a lot more. You will have plenty of time to enjoy the mind blowing landscapes and photograph the wildlife as well.
This is a good time as many for me to give you a heads up about sea sickness - it is no myth. The weather was rough on day two and we did feel nauseous. We thought it was pretty severe already but the expedition team told us that all we experienced was a “Drake Lake” - which isn't nearly as bad as the Drake Storm *shudders*
Pro Tip: stand on the deck and look out into the horizon. It helps the brain reorient itself. The most difficult part would be trying to sleep - I was so excited, I could barely close my eyes. I was so mesmerized by the miles and miles of ice.
Day 3. Arctoski station
We were not quite in the continent yet but getting there. Our first landing was at the Polish station called Arctowski Station. This a research station that is located on the southern hemisphere in the Southern Shetland archipelago, on King George Island, off the coast of Admiralty Bay.
Of course, it was also our very landing and our first penguin sighting - we were lucky enough to see all three species - Gentoo, Chinstrap and Adelie. The people at the station were really friendly too.
Seeing glaciers reminded me of my trip to Iceland. Forever crushing on these beauties.
One of the most FAQ on DM was if we saw any Emperor Penguins. We went to the Western Peninsula of the continent - the Emperor Penguins breed exclusively on the South Georgia-Falkland Islands. That being said, there are three beautiful species of Penguins on this part of the peninsula. These ones here are the Gentoo Penguins - the third largest species of Penguin. How do you identify a Gentoo? Well, they will have a bright red-orange bill and a conspicuous white eye patch.
Day 4. Yankee Harbor cruising and landing
Our second day in Antarctica involved a full day which started off with a landing at the Yankee Harbor, a long glacier moraine where we could really stretch our legs, and also enjoy the sight of penguins and Elephant seals at the beach.
Antarctica is majestic and overwhelming but if truth be told, it’s all about finding these furry little neat freaks. Watching them go about their business is the most rewarding highlight of any expedition down South. I just loved watching the goings-on in Penguin colonies and learning about their courtships and how they raise their chicks. They are a captivating bunch.
Later in the day, we also did a cruise to Hospital Point, today inhabited with hundreds of Gentoo penguin colonies. They all stood in a line - ready to jump in - but alas, it wasn't meant to be. They just walked back, in the same uniform manner. Fascinating creatures!
Day 5 - traveling to the Antarctica sound
Officially inside the continent... at a place called the Brown Bluff. The scheduled island landing had to be pushed because of excessive icy conditions... but we still did a one hour zodiac cruise. Bluff Volcano landing site.
Location: Brown Bluff, Antarctica.. on one of our first few days in Antarctica. We had originally planned to do a landing, but it had to be canceled due to the quickly shifting ice.
All was not lost. Our awesome expedition team took the zodiac boats out for a spin between all the ice. Not only did we get to see penguins on ice-floes but we could also see that we were really in the icy white desert continent now.
The stillness in the air was astounding - you can almost hear it.
Fun fact: penguins spend 80% of their day preening - so if you want to picture of them standing straight, you're going to have be very patient.
Day 6 - Esperanza station
Today we landed at the Argentinian Esperanza station - last foothold of Argentina in the world. It also happens to be one of the largest bases in Antarctica, with both a school and a chapel. We were guided buy some of the “locals”, and learnt about the history of the place. Apparently, people live here year long - 60 people and kids, there is a school. During the harsh winters, where the weather is a mere -50C, people stay indoors and play games.
You may have seen videos of male Emperor Penguins huddled together in the snow, protecting their egg against the brash Antarctic winds. It is not just the Emperor dads - almost all species of these semi-aquatic birds are some of the most dedicated parents in the world. They make long, often treacherous trips to collect krill for their baby. The parents also have magically accurate timing between themselves, taking it in turns to feed and protect the chick. This was one of our first sightings of chicks on the peninsula. So glad we were able to watch this!
Not only did we get to see baby chicks, but we also go to see the long suffering nature of Penguin males. Here you can see the male penguin holding a stone in it's bill. The male penguin will pick up a stone to place below the female penguin, who sit atop a tiny stone mountain with her egg. I swear, I have never seen anything like it... I could watch them all day long.
Day 7 - Pendulum Cove and Whalers Bay Today was the Volcano-day. We sailed into the caldera of an active Volcano, trough the Neptuns Bellows. First landing was Pendulum Cove, where a Chilean station had burned down in 1967 due to an eruption.
In the afternoon, we landed about 7km away, at Whalers Bay. A place with lots of history and remains both from the whaling era and later from the British station located here. Again, we found ourselves inside an active volcano - last big eruption in 1969, Chilean base evacuated. Spain and Argentina stations actively monitoring seismic situation. Don't miss the epic Neptune Billows.
Antarctica is an enigma. There is an excitement in trying to understand the Southernmost landscape of the world. Though rightly know as the land of white, there is much history in how that came to be. Over thousands of years, the South American continent and Antarctica drifted apart. This lead to cold winds circulating around the continent, blocking the sun from entering - thus becoming the icy white place it is today.
Remember how I was telling you about the different types of penguins and the differences? Well here is one more with a Chinstrap penguin amidst Gentoo. You can clearly tell the one of the right is a chinstrap - instantly recognizable because of the black band under it's chin. They are not as big as the Gentoo but they are the most commonly found penguins on the peninsula. We spotted over 50 colonies over two weeks.
Day 8 - Neko Harbour
We landed at the ethereal Neko Harbour. By far my favorite morning on deck.. we spent an hour after breakfast just staring at this.
We started making our way to the station there. It was a bit steep to walk to the penguin rookery, but at the top we got to enjoy the fantastic view to the majestic glacier front, and the penguins up close and personal.
In the afternoon we were cruising in Paradise Bay, by the Brown Station and heard the story of the doctor who burned the station down so he could return home to his “senorita” - so bizzare!
“Make way - it’s the Penguin highway”
If you followed me while we were in Antarctica, you may have seen a lot of these little trails on my stories. They are paths for the penguins to move up and down from the lake below to their colonies on higher ground. If you haven’t watched the stories yet, you must - watch them stumble then gracefully pick up themselves up to carry on without a care in the world. It is a lesson for life!
Day 9 - cruising at Chiriguano Bay
This place is famously know as the Balloon islands with pristine blue glaciers. There is also no wildlife because of the closely packed glaciers - there is no room for penguins to nest.
Landing at Danco Island. It is an island inhabited by huge colonies of Gentoo penguins.
We got to see them (and the smell) up close. Once we got to the top, we were rewarded with an amazing view of the rookeries and the channel with some huge icebergs. There was also a super cool snow slide down, which I posted about in my insta-stories.
Let me tell you a little about the icebergs in Antarctica and their soul-stirring beauty. You may have seen thousands of films, documentaries and slow-mo videos of icebergs but none of them compare to the magic and grandeur of watching these humongous sculptures of nature up close. The sheer size of the glaciers here is enough to make you feel insignificant. The first sighting of an iceberg on an expedition is unforgettable but you never get used to their size, no matter how many times you see them!
Day 10 - landing and cruising at Orne Island
Another day of epic landings with a nice steep walk to the top of the hill.
On the way to the top we had to cross several penguin highways. In Antarctica, the penguins have the right of way, so we experienced “traffic delays” from time to time.
We also spotted our first crab eater seal on the island.
Day 11 - landing at Demoy Island.
Christmas Day. We spent it at Damoy Point, watching more penguins and also taking a hike to two old cabins, one Argentinian and one British.
A lot of us did a long hike with snowshoes on, up the hill behind the cabins for a stunning view to the surrounding mountains, MS Midnatsol and Port Lockroy down in the bay.
The snowshoeing activity was around 2 hours in total. We went around the hill to reach the summit point where the famous explorer Roald Amundsen built his tent. What you see behind us is the southern most post office in the world.
The evening was celebrated with traditional Norwegian Christmas dishes, and carol-singing in the main stairway of the ship.
Day 12 - Lemaire Channel and Cuverville Island
Today was the last day of landing in Cuverville Island. This landing offered us even more penguins, a few seals, and a hike to a stunning viewpoint.
Due to the wind and the shallow waters, there were a large amount of amazing icebergs just off the beach. What a view.
One of Antarctica’s most striking features is that of scale. The continent is considered larger than Europe and one and half times the size of United States. It also has nearly 90% of the world’s ice, and its deepest, the ice layer is 15,000 feet thick. The ice is unlike anything you have seen in other countries. We saw this massive iceberg as we were crossing the famous Lemaire Channel. You would be hard pressed to find something else this bewitching.
Day 13 - Fournier Bay
All good things come to an end, so did our trip. There was a silver lining, we had one final day of cruising ahead of us, which we spent it in Fournier Bay.
Though the weather was a bit gray, the whales didn’t care. They were all around us. Some of us were lucky to have them really close to our explorer boats.
After two weeks on the continent, if you ask me to pick ONE favorite - this would be it. The endless beauty and wonder of ice. Thousands of glaciers, enormous icebergs and countless sheets of ice. Add to it an ethereal every changing light that highlights the vastness of the place. I swear, if the world was black and white, blue is the color I’d miss the most. What an ending to a magnificent journey it was.
Day 14 & 15 - Drake Storm.
The two last days of the trip went to crossing the Drake. On our way south, we had the Drake Lake. On our way back north however, King Neptune had other plans for us. He sent us a real Drake Shake, with 10 meter high waves and wind speed up to 30m/s. On the last day, the wind decreased over the night and waves became smaller as we sailed by Cape Horn, with albatross around the ship. That evening we sailed trough the Beagle Channel before finally arriving back in Ushuaia.
Final Thoughts
Our emotions from being here were indescribable. The cracking icebergs, the silence, the wildlife—everything about this place demands humility.
For the first time in our lives, we were in a place that belongs to no one. A place where nature is still in charge. Antarctica travel is not about ticking off a list; it’s about shifting perspective.
As I think back, one thing remains clear: this Antarctica cruise was more than a trip. It was a lesson in respect, fragility, and wonder.
As I think back, one thing remains clear: this Antarctica cruise was more than a trip. It was a lesson in respect, fragility, and wonder.
And I hope, someday, you get to stand on this icy continent too. Because once you do, the world will never look the same again.
Drop your comments below and show some love. Feel free to shoot me an email with your feedback.
Cheers,
Anki
To explore more destinations, be sure to check out other blogs for additional insights.
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