Turkmenistan Tourism Guide: Visa, Itinerary & Highlights
- Ankitha
- May 5, 2023
- 5 min read
Updated: Aug 11
What is it like visiting one of the least accessible countries in the world? Thought-provoking, tightly controlled… yet, surprisingly warm and welcoming.
Long dubbed the “North Korea with oil,” Turkmenistan receives five times fewer tourists than North Korea—which is precisely what intrigued me. It turned out to be a road trip filled with strange grandeur, flaming craters, ghost-white cities, ancient villages, and classic Central Asian hospitality.
Turkmenistan Road Trip Itinerary
Here’s our 5-day itinerary:
Day 1–2: Land in Ashgabat, city tour
Day 3: Drive to Erbent Village, camp overnight at Darvaza Gas Crater
Day 4: Visit Nokhur Village, overnight at local homestay
Day 5: Cave stop & return to Ashgabat
Day 6: Fly out
We covered this comfortably in 5 days—but if your LOI gives you more time, add hikes in the Kopet Dag mountains or more time in local villages.
TABLE OF CONTENTS
Visa & Flights to Turkmenistan
Fly into Ashgabat – We flew in from Dubai on Fly Dubai, a short 2.5-hour flight.
Visa Process: Turkmenistan has one of the toughest tourist visa systems. Most visitors need a Letter of Invitation (LOI) from a local tour agency. Here’s how to get it:
Find a reliable local guide
Share your travel dates; the guide applies for an LOI from the Ministry of Tourism
Once approved (can take 3 weeks), use it to get a Visa on Arrival ($99) at Ashgabat Airport
Visa validity: usually 7–10 days only
Carry USD in cash—credit cards don’t work!
We got our LOI just 2 days before departure, so opted for Visa on Arrival. If you're based in the UAE, there's also an embassy in Abu Dhabi.
Language
Even in Ashgabat, English is rare. A local Russian-speaking guide is essential.
Currency
Carry only USD. Exchange through your guide—black market currency exchange is illegal.
Best Time to Visit
Avoid the scorching summer! Visit during March–May or October–November.
Photography Rules
Do NOT photograph government buildings, police, or presidential palaces. You’ll find guards watching everywhere—respect the law.
Where We Stayed
Ashgabat – Ak Atyln Hotel: Central location, markets & cafes nearby
Darvaza – Yurt Camp: Pizza cooked in the sand, roaring fire under the stars
Nokhur Village – Local homestay: No beds, just soft carpets and pure mountain hospitality
Vegetarian food is scarce, but Sha Cafe and Uzum Cafe in Ashgabat saved us with amazing fresh salads, lentils, and labneh. Expect lots of old bread, tea, and cucumbers in remote areas. Pack snacks if you're vegan.
Ashgabat – The Marble City
Nicknamed “The City of White Marble”, Ashgabat holds the Guinness World Record for the most marble-clad buildings. Only white or light-colored cars are allowed!
The city is grand, surreal, and filled with golden statues and futuristic architecture — each building symbolizing something from Turkmen history. Photography is restricted in many places, but once you settle in, the city leaves a lasting impression.
Highlights:
📸 Panoramic views of the all-white city
🏛 Independence Monument with golden statues
🐎 10 Horse Monument – tribute to the Akhal-Teke horse
📚 Ministry of Knowledge – shaped like an open book
Ertugrul Gazi Mosque – like Istanbul’s Blue Mosque, but quieter
Inspiration Park – giant statues of poets, fountains, and calm walks
Favorite veggie spot: Sha Café (went 3 times!)
Erbent Village Stopover
On the way to Darvaza, we stopped in Erbent, a traditional desert village. Life here still reflects semi-nomadic customs.
A touching moment: a lone nun watching over graves of those who died resisting Soviet rule.
Saparmurat Hajji Mosque (Geokdepe)
Built in memory of fallen defenders, it’s an international project — German tiles, Moroccan doors, French-built. A symbol of unity, history, and pride.
Ruhy Mosque
Commissioned by the former president and not a true mosque — its pillars quote the Ruhnama (his book), not the Quran. Still, the scale and interior are breathtaking.
It’s even MORE grand on the inside if you can imagine that!
Darvaza Gas Crater – The Gates of Hell
Not natural—but epic. A Soviet drilling accident gone wrong, still burning decades later. Best viewed while camping nearby—stars above, flames below. Eerie & unforgettable.
Why is it still such a great place to be? Our stay in the yurt—just like in Kyrgyzstan—was wonderful and surprisingly spacious. We’re always up for camping, and with only the stars above and the fire roaring in the distance, it felt perfect. Camping at Darvaza is the best way to experience it. The view at night was my favorite—almost apocalyptic, don’t you think?
Nokhur Village – Mountain Magic
A remote valley where animist beliefs meet ancient traditions:
Graves marked with goat horns to ward off evil
Local women cover mouths with scarves—a mystery yet unsolved
Underground healing cave pool nearby—cooling, calming, spiritual
Nokhur is remote and steeped in ancient traditions, unlike anywhere else in Turkmenistan. We stayed with one of the oldest families, sleeping on carpets and sharing endless food and chai. I noticed women cover their mouths with headscarves—one of many unique customs here.
The cemetery is especially striking, with goat horns on graves to ward off evil and stones carved with steps to guide souls to heaven.
Hiking to the tallest mountain filled me with gratitude for discovering such an untouched place.
On the way back to Ashgabat, we visited an underground cave with a healing lake—perfect for a refreshing dip after the hike. Highly recommended.
Final Thoughts
Turkmenistan is not an easy country to visit—but that’s exactly why you should.
It’s a country where time feels frozen, shaped by presidential ego, Soviet ruins, and age-old beliefs.
And yet, it is filled with humble, curious people who are proud to share their stories. If you crave experiences that challenge your ideas of travel, this road trip through Turkmenistan will change the way you see the world.
Thanks for reading! Leave your questions or travel dreams in the comments.
Lots of love,
Anki
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Hey, would it be possible to share the tour operators you used for this trip?